Banh Cuon, the classic Vietnamese breakfast dish, is not, as the above picture shows, a great food to photograph. But as so often in Asian cuisine, it is usually made right in front of one's eyes, and it's the making that is rather more photogenic.

The set-up at this Banh Cuon joint in Son La was particularly rough and ready - the steamed pancakes were made on what looked like old oil drums, and the dipping sauce kept in a saucepan on the floor...

...but though this was my first Banh Cuon in Vietnam, it's gonna take some beating. The balance between pancake and filling was perfect, the fried shallots sweet and moreish, and the dipping sauce a beguiling combination of flavours. What a great way to start the day.

Banh Cuon restaurant, main street, Son La.