Advance warning for vegetarians: this post's not for you!

Been having great fun hanging out with Robyn and Dave from Eating Asia this week, and the other day threw up an unexpected delight. We were in Longquan, a small city about an hour from Chengdu, checking out the Southwest Flavourings Company, and eating at one of my favourite restaurants. We were all set to head off back to Chengdu after lunch when our driver, Heiwa, said he knew a very lovely guzhen (ancient town) nearby, and would we like to go and have a look?

Not really knowing what to expect, we set off in our little mianbao che on a road that twisted and turned through the hills. As we snaked our way down the valley side, a collection of old roofs and courtyards came into view, and I had the feeling that this was going to be something special.

And boy was it. Unlike other guzhens near Chengdu that have been prettified and sanitized for the hoards of tourists who descend upon them at weekends, this was the real deal. The road to Wufeng (Five Winds), as the town is called, has only just been paved, and the town itself hasn't yet had the same treatment. A crumbling temple was guarded by a single crotchety old lady; seemingly ancient men gathered in makeshift teahouses to play cards and mahjong; and schoolchildren followed us around as if the circus had come to town (which in a way it had).

Best of all for us foodies was the wealth of dried products hung up all around town. Here's a small selection.

Orange peel drying in the temple.

Various dried meats and sausages.

A lady preparing larou (homemade bacon).

Cute girl and drying radishes.

My favourite though was this lady, who was smoking huge slabs of meat over a pine wood fire...

...and who thoughtfully lifted up the cardboard that was covering the meat so that we could have a better look.

See veggies - I told you this one wasn't for you.